1. I used a couple of 2 inch strainer end cap to hold the mounting screws to the secondary tube. These caps are available for about $2 at home stores.
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2. I also cut a piece of brass shim stock to run through the hole on the tube, and bending it all the way around the inside of the hole. When the screw in inserted it fits tightly and you actually need to screw it into place. It seems like there is no way it would not have a solid electrical connection with the screw, and provides a convenient tab to solder the secondary wire to.
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This collection then gets hot glued onto the secondary and seems to provide a very good mechanical and electrical connection. I lined the tab up with the end of the wire as I glued it, and later soldered it to the wire. The coil reads a solid 228 ohms now. I still plan to glue the other disks over this one to provide an even more solid connection. Again, not tested, but I do not know why it would not work. There is also no reason this technique could not be used with just the standard end plates if you felt those were solid enough. You do need slightly longer screws, but I am using stainless steel to reduce any magnetic interference.