I have a number of suggestions for the case assembly:
When ever I solder loose wires into a circuit board, I always embed them in a small dollop of hot glue to protect them from breaking loose from the board from being bent around during assembly:
It took me longer to figure out how to assemble the case that it did to solder the PC board! There are not enough reference images to clearly show how the ends install. If you explained in the manual that each edge is uniquely keyed, it would really help. You could also laser etch very small letters in the corners so that corner "A" on the front side connects to corner "A" on the end.
It really helps to remove the knob from the fiber-optic connector before assembling the case around the circuit board which is mounted to the base plate of the case. This allows the end to fit over the connector more easily.
I really think it would be more amenable to provide rubber feet for the case.
As I struggled with assembling the case I kept questioning how one would replace the battery. It seems that there is no provision for doing so without completely disassembling the case which is really kind of weird. So I milled out the end to allow the battery to slide in.
I also attached some thin 1/16 inch thick self-adhesive foam to the bottom surface of the circuit board to prevent any risk of the battery shorting out connections on the board.
The battery still rattles around in there, and I may add some half inch foam weather strip to constrain it more.
I would definitely suggest that the case and the modified so that the battery can be readily replaced.
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Interrupter case - changing battery
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Interrupter case - changing battery
I design and develop electronic products for a living. Built many Tesla Coils using 10 Amp triode interrupters back in the mid 1980's.
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tekart - Tipsy Toggle Switch
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