Steps 8 and 9

Step 8: Install the IGBTs

 

The IGBTs are mounted flush against the heat sink, and their leads are soldered to the top of the PCB. Sil-pad is an electrically insulative but thermally conductive material, which allows heat from the IGBTs to be transferred to the heat sink to dissipate, but insulates it electrically.

  • A. Clean the surface of the heat sink in the area of the IGBTs thoroughly. Make sure there’s no dirt or grime.
  • B. Screw in the IGBTs using 10mm M3 screws, using sil-pad to isolate the IGBT from the heat sink. Ensure there’s no contact between the IGBT and the heat sink. Screw them down securely, so that they don’t move when you put force on the leads.
     Mount the IGBTs on top of the sil-pads
  • C. Bend the leads of the IGBTs 90 degrees at the point where the legs become thinner.
     Bend the leads of the IGBTs
  • D. Place the PCB over the IGBTs and insert the legs through the holes in the board.
    
  • E. Next, make the board mechanically secure by screwing in three 25mm standoffs into the holes at the corner of the board. You may need to push hard and bend the leads of the IGBTs a little bit to make the board align.
     Solder in the IGBTs

 

  • F. Solder in the IGBTs. You can clip the leads or leave them long, which may make them easier to remove later on.

 

The completed board

The completed board

 

Step 9: Finish soldering the PCBs

 

The shield PCB has a conductive mesh that shields the electronics of the driver from the strong magnetic field produced by the primary coil directly above it. The only parts on this board are solder-in M3 brackets to which you will later fasten the PCB side panels.

Solder the M3 brackets   Solder the ground wire to the resonator

 

 

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